How Much to Feed a Guinea Pig Per Day: Chart by Weight

Why Weight Is the Best Way to Answer “How Much Should I Feed?”

If you’ve ever Googled how much to feed a guinea pig per day, you’ve probably seen vague advice like “unlimited hay, a small amount of pellets, some veggies.” That’s correct—but not specific enough to keep weight stable, prevent dental trouble, and avoid bladder stones.

As a vet-tech-style rule of thumb: guinea pigs do best when you feed to the body you have, not the body you assume. Two pigs can eat the same “portion” and respond totally differently based on:

• •Body size and frame (a sturdy American vs. a fine-boned Peruvian)
• •Age (growing pups need more concentrated nutrition)
• •Activity level (a pig with a big playpen vs. a small cage)
• •Health factors (dental disease, arthritis, GI sensitivity, stone history)

So the goal of this guide is simple: give you a feeding chart by weight that you can actually use, then teach you how to adjust it safely.

The Guinea Pig Feeding Chart (Hay, Pellets, Veggies by Weight)

This chart assumes a healthy adult guinea pig (about 6+ months old) with normal activity, normal teeth, and normal poop.

Daily baseline:

• •Hay: unlimited (the “portion” is basically “always available”)
• •Pellets: measured (most pigs overeat pellets if free-fed)
• •Veggies: measured (variety matters as much as volume)

Daily Feeding Chart for Adult Guinea Pigs

Use your pig’s current weight, then adjust based on weekly weigh-ins and body condition.

Important nuance: More weight does not automatically mean “more pellets.” If a pig is heavy because of fat (not frame/muscle), the adjustment is usually more hay + more movement, not more pellets.

Pro-tip: If you can only measure one thing precisely, measure pellets. Pellets are the easiest place for extra calories to sneak in.

Hay: The Non-Negotiable Foundation (And How to Do It Right)

Hay is the “teeth + gut” food. It drives chewing, wears down molars, and keeps the intestines moving.

How Much Hay per Day?

For most pigs: unlimited grass hay means:

• •Hay is available 24/7
• •Your pig can bury their face in it
• •You refill at least 1–2 times daily
• •The hay stays clean and dry (not used as a bathroom)

A practical target is “at least a body-sized pile” morning and evening, but don’t get hung up on volume. Some pigs waste hay by nesting in it, and that’s okay—you just keep it fresh.

Best Hay Types (With Simple Comparisons)

Most adult guinea pigs should eat grass hay, not alfalfa.

• •Timothy hay: classic choice; good fiber; many pigs love it
• •Orchard grass: softer, often preferred by picky pigs; great alternative if timothy triggers allergies in humans
• •Meadow hay: mixed grasses; can be more variable; good for variety

Alfalfa hay: higher calcium + protein. Great for pups and pregnant/nursing sows, but too rich for many adults.

Real Scenario: The “Picky Hay” Guinea Pig

Your Abyssinian (900 g) eats veggies like a champ but ignores hay. You notice smaller poops and occasional drooling.

Step-by-step fix:

1. Offer two hay types side-by-side (timothy + orchard).
2. Refresh twice daily (stale hay loses the smell they like).
3. Change presentation: pile + hay rack + stuff into a paper bag.
4. Reduce pellets by 25% for 7–10 days to encourage hay intake (as long as weight stays stable).
5. If drooling, weight loss, or reduced poop continues: schedule an exotics vet visit—dental pain often looks like “picky eating.”

Pro-tip: Hay refusal is one of the earliest signs of dental disease. Don’t just “wait it out” if the pig is also losing weight.

Pellets: The Measured “Vitamin Insurance,” Not the Main Course

Pellets should support the diet, not replace hay. Think of pellets as controlled, consistent nutrition (including stabilized vitamin C in many formulas).

How Much Pellets per Day?

If you remember one number for adult pigs:

• •About 1/8 cup per pig per day (roughly 2 tablespoons / 15–20 g) for most average adults

Then use the weight chart earlier to fine-tune.

What Pellets to Buy (And What to Avoid)

Look for:

• •Plain, timothy-based pellets for adults (no seeds, no colored bits)
• •Freshness (vitamin C degrades over time)
• •No added sugars and minimal fillers

Avoid:

• •Muesli mixes (selective eating + obesity risk)
• •Pellets with seeds, nuts, dried fruit (unsafe and unbalanced)

Product Recommendations (Reliable, Widely Used Options)

These are commonly recommended in exotics practices and by rescues:

• •Oxbow Essentials Adult Guinea Pig (timothy-based)
• •Sherwood Adult Guinea Pig (Timothy-based) (often used for picky/stone-prone pigs; check availability and transitions)
• •Small Pet Select Guinea Pig Pellets (quality control tends to be solid)

If you have a baby (under ~6 months):

• •Oxbow Essentials Young Guinea Pig (alfalfa-based)

Step-by-Step: Switching Pellets Without GI Upset

1. Days 1–3: 75% old + 25% new
2. Days 4–6: 50/50
3. Days 7–9: 25% old + 75% new
4. Day 10+: 100% new

Watch for:

• •Soft poop, reduced poop, bloating, reduced appetite (pause and consult your vet if severe)

Veggies: Daily Variety With Vitamin C (Without Causing Stones)

Veggies provide hydration, enrichment, and vitamin C—but the wrong choices (or too much of the wrong thing) can cause gas, diarrhea, or urinary issues.

How Much Veggies per Day?

Most adults do well with:

• •About 1 cup of mixed veggies per day for a ~900–1100 g pig

Use the chart to scale up/down.

Split into:

• •AM + PM servings to keep the gut steady

The “Daily Salad” Formula (Simple and Repeatable)

Aim for:

• •1 leafy green base (about 60–70% of the mix)
• •1 vitamin C veggie
• •1–2 rotating extras (color + texture)

Examples of good bases:

• •Romaine (better than iceberg; still not the only green)
• •Green leaf/red leaf lettuce
• •Cilantro
• •Endive/escarole

High vitamin C options (rotate):

• •Bell pepper (especially red/yellow; a top staple)
• •Small amounts of parsley (higher calcium; use strategically)

Rotating extras (use to add variety):

• •Cucumber (hydration; not nutrient-dense, so not the whole salad)
• •Zucchini
• •Cherry tomato (small amount)
• •Carrot (small amount; sugary)

Veggies to Limit (Common Stone/Gas Triggers)

These aren’t “never,” but they’re “not daily staples” for many pigs:

• •High calcium: kale, spinach, collards, parsley (especially for pigs with stone/sludge history)
• •Gassy: cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower (introduce carefully, tiny portions)
• •Sugary: fruit, carrots (treat-level)

Pro-tip: If your guinea pig has had bladder stones or “sludge,” ask your exotics vet for a diet plan tailored to that history. Many pigs do best on lower-calcium greens plus consistent hydration.

Real Scenario: The Peruvian With Soft Poops

Your Peruvian (1100 g) looks great, but after you introduced kale “because it’s healthy,” poops got mushy.

Troubleshooting steps:

1. Remove the newest veggie (kale) for 3–5 days.
2. Feed simple greens (romaine + bell pepper) and unlimited hay.
3. Keep pellets measured (don’t “comfort feed” extra).
4. Reintroduce kale only if needed and at tiny portions, or skip it entirely.

Vitamin C, Water, and Treats (The Details That Make or Break a Diet)

Guinea pigs cannot make vitamin C. Deficiency can cause lethargy, painful joints, poor coat, slow wound healing, and appetite changes.

Vitamin C: The Practical Approach

Most healthy adult pigs do well when you:

• •Feed daily bell pepper (excellent vitamin C source)
• •Use a quality pellet (but don’t rely on pellets alone for C)
• •Consider a supplement if intake is inconsistent

Common, vet-approved style supplements include:

• •Oxbow Natural Science Vitamin C tablets (many pigs take them like treats)
• •Child-safe plain vitamin C can be used under vet guidance (dosing matters)

Avoid:

• •Vitamin C drops in water (degrades quickly, can reduce drinking)

Water: Bottle vs Bowl

• •Bottle: cleaner, measurable, common standard
• •Heavy ceramic bowl: encourages natural drinking posture; can be great if your pig doesn’t tip it

If urine looks gritty, or you see chalky residue:

• •Increase hydration with wet veggies, consider bowl + bottle, and talk to your vet about stone risk.

Treats: A Clear, Safe Rule

Treats should be:

• •Tiny (think thumbnail-sized)
• •Rare (a few times per week, not daily)
• •Low sugar

Better treats:

• •A small slice of strawberry or apple (occasional)
• •A single Oxbow vitamin C tablet if it fits the plan

Avoid:

• •Yogurt drops (guinea pigs don’t need dairy)
• •Seed sticks, honey treats, sugary “snack” mixes

Breed and Life-Stage Examples (Because “One Portion” Doesn’t Fit All)

Guinea pigs aren’t dogs with breed-specific kibble needs, but breed/body type affects how you interpret weight and condition.

American (Classic, Medium Frame)

Typical adult range: often 900–1200 g.

• •Follow the chart closely.
• •Watch for pellet creep—Americans often have hearty appetites.

Abyssinian (High Energy, “Busy” Eater)

Often active, can burn more calories.

• •Keep hay unlimited.
• •If weight is stable and activity is high, you may stay at the upper end of the veggie range.

Peruvian / Silkie (Long-Haired, Grooming Needs)

Long coats can hide weight loss.

• •Weigh weekly; don’t rely on looks.
• •Veggies can mat in fur—feed in a clean area and consider “salad plates.”

Skinny Pig (Higher Energy Needs)

Skinny pigs often need more calories to maintain weight.

• •Keep hay unlimited.
• •Many do better with slightly more pellets if weight trends down, but increase gradually and monitor stools.

Babies (Under ~6 Months) and Pregnant/Nursing Sows

They typically need:

• •Alfalfa-based pellets and/or some alfalfa hay
• •More protein/energy than adults
• •Careful monitoring so they grow steadily without GI upset

If you’re unsure, this is one of those times where “how much to feed a guinea pig per day” should be answered with your vet’s input—especially for pregnancy.

Step-by-Step: Build a Daily Feeding Routine That Actually Works

Consistency prevents picky eating, obesity, and GI swings.

Step 1: Weigh Weekly (Minimum)

You need:

• •A digital kitchen scale (grams)
• •A bowl or small box the pig can sit in

Weigh:

• •Same day/time each week (morning before veggies is ideal)

Red flags:

• •30–50 g loss in a week (watch closely)
• •Ongoing losses or sudden drops: call your exotics vet

Step 2: Set Pellets First (Because They’re the Calorie Lever)

Pick the pellet amount from the chart.

• •Use a tablespoon measure for consistency.
• •Don’t “top off” randomly.

Step 3: Design the Salad (Repeatable Template)

Use:

• •Leafy base + bell pepper + rotating extra

Keep it consistent for 1–2 weeks, then rotate slowly.

Step 4: Hay Logistics (Reduce Waste, Increase Intake)

• •Offer hay in two locations (rack + pile)
• •Replace soiled hay daily
• •If your pig pees on hay piles, try a hay bag or a rack with a catch tray

Pro-tip: A guinea pig eating “enough” hay will usually produce lots of uniform, firm poops all day. Poop is feedback.

Sample Menus (Realistic, Not Pinterest)

These are examples for healthy adults; adjust amounts to the weight chart.

Example A: 900 g Adult Boar (American)

• •Hay: unlimited timothy
• •Pellets: 1.5 tbsp
• •Veggies (split AM/PM):
• •Romaine + red bell pepper + cilantro
• •Endive + green bell pepper + a few cucumber slices

Example B: 1300 g Adult Sow (Abyssinian) With Slight Weight Gain

• •Hay: unlimited orchard grass + timothy mix
• •Pellets: 2 tbsp (not 3)
• •Veggies: 1.25–1.5 cups (focus on low-calcium greens)
• •Add: more floor time, hideys, tunnels to encourage movement

Example C: Skinny Pig (1000 g) Struggling to Maintain Weight

• •Hay: unlimited (offer multiple types)
• •Pellets: 2 tbsp, evaluate after 7 days
• •Veggies: 1–1.25 cups (include bell pepper daily)
• •If weight still drops: consult vet; consider dental check and targeted calorie support

Common Mistakes (And What to Do Instead)

These are the patterns I see constantly in clinic-adjacent life:

Mistake 1: Free-Feeding Pellets

Why it’s a problem:

• •Leads to obesity, reduced hay intake, and sometimes softer stools

Do instead:

• •Measure pellets daily (chart-based)

Mistake 2: Too Many “Healthy” High-Calcium Greens

Why it’s a problem:

• •Can increase risk for urinary sludge/stones in susceptible pigs

Do instead:

• •Rotate greens; emphasize lower-calcium options; keep hydration high

Mistake 3: Thinking Fruit Is a Necessary Part of the Diet

Why it’s a problem:

• •Sugar disrupts gut balance and adds empty calories

Do instead:

• •Fruit as occasional treat only

Mistake 4: Not Weighing Until There’s a Problem

Why it’s a problem:

• •Guinea pigs hide illness; weight loss is often the first clear sign

Do instead:

• •Weekly weights, record in your phone

Mistake 5: Relying on “Vitamin Water Drops”

Why it’s a problem:

• •Unreliable dosing; vitamin C breaks down; some pigs drink less

Do instead:

• •Bell pepper daily + quality pellets + chewable C supplement if needed

Shopping List: Simple, High-Impact Product Picks

If you’re building a reliable routine, these are practical upgrades that pay off.

Hay Sources

• •Small Pet Select (timothy/orchard variety)
• •Oxbow (widely available, consistent)

Look for hay that’s:

• •Green-ish, fragrant, low dust, not overly stemmy (unless your pig prefers stems)

Pellets

• •Oxbow Essentials Adult (timothy-based)
• •Small Pet Select Guinea Pig Pellets
• •Sherwood Adult Guinea Pig (timothy-based)

Tools That Make Feeding Easier

• •Digital kitchen scale (grams)
• •Heavy ceramic bowl (optional, for water or salad)
• •Hay rack or hay bag (to reduce waste)

Quick FAQ: Fast Answers You’ll Actually Use

“So… how much to feed a guinea pig per day?”

For a healthy adult:

• •Unlimited grass hay
• •~1/8 cup pellets (adjust by weight)
• •~1 cup veggies (adjust by weight; bell pepper daily)

Use the chart to scale.

“Can I feed only veggies and skip pellets?”

Some owners do pellet-free diets successfully, but it requires careful planning for vitamin C and nutrient balance. If you want to go pellet-free, do it with:

• •A vet-approved plan
• •Consistent vitamin C strategy
• •Very steady weighing and stool monitoring

“My guinea pig acts hungry all the time—should I feed more?”

“Hungry” often means:

• •Wants pellets/treats (not true calorie need)
• •Not enough hay variety or freshness
• •Boredom

Try:

• •More hay access points
• •More enrichment (foraging in hay, paper bags, scatter feeding veggies)
• •Keep pellets measured; track weight weekly

“How do I know if my pig is overweight?”

Signs:

• •Fat pads under the chin/neck
• •Harder to feel ribs (you should feel ribs with light pressure, not see them)
• •Reduced activity

Best move:

• •Keep hay unlimited, reduce pellets slightly, increase floor time, and monitor weekly weight trends.

If you want, tell me your guinea pig’s age, weight in grams, and whether they’re a male/female (and breed if you know it). I can suggest a specific daily pellet tablespoon target and a simple veggie rotation that fits your situation.